In addition to the numerous collar styles we offer, we have three different collar constructions that provide an extra layer of variety and versatility for your shirt designs. These different constructions are generally suited to different uses and styles and will change the final look or expression of the collar and shirt. Our offering is curated for the most tasteful and useful combinations, so not all collar styles are available in all constructions.
One of the main components of collar construction is interlining, which is a general term for a material that is inserted between the outer fabric layers of a collar to provide support and structure to the collar from the inside. Interlinings can be attached to the collar in different ways. If the interlining is heat bonded to the collar fabric, it is referred to as “fused” or “fusible,” whereas if the interlining is sewn to the collar, it is referred to as “unfused” or “non-fused.” We use a variety of premium interlinings in our collars, including both fused and unfused, which are optimized for each construction.
Construction 1: Dress Collars – “Stiff Fused”
Our most professional and formal collars feature a “stiff fused” construction. The interlinings are fused to the collar fabric, which gives a smooth, even finish to the collars. The interlinings in these collars are stiff, providing the greatest amount of structure and support. Together, these properties keep the collar looking smooth and pucker-free over time after wearing and laundering. The stiffness, and consequent formality, of these collars is less ideal for casual fabrics and shirts like linen and flannel and is best suited for classic business and formal staples like pinpoint, twill, and broadcloth.
Construction 2: Casual Collars – “Soft Non-Fused”
Our most casual collars feature a “soft non-fused” construction, noted by the “Soft” prefix in the collar name (e.g. Soft Franklin Spread). The interlinings are sewn to the collar fabric, which adds light support to the collar while maintaining the flexibility and character of the fabric. This keeps the collar soft, though it means the collar will develop some puckering around the edges over time after wearing and laundering. Collars with a soft non-fused construction have a casual look and are not ideal for business or formal fabrics and dress shirts; they work best for casual fabrics like textured linens, corduroys, and ivy-inspired oxfords.
Construction 3: Hybrid Collars – “Soft Fused”
Our third collar construction is a hybrid of our other two constructions, and they are noted by the “Soft Fused” prefix in the collar name (e.g. Soft Fused Franklin Spread). In soft fused collars, the interlinings are fused to the collar fabric, which provides a smooth, even finish to the collars, however these interlinings are lighter, softer, and more pliable than the interlinings in our stiff fused collars. This allows a soft fused collar to look smoother than a soft non-fused collar, but also be more flexible than a stiff fused collar. Soft fused collars will have some puckering around the edges over time after wearing and laundering, but these effects will be more subtle and look cleaner than the results you’ll see on soft non-fused collars. Soft fused collars are ideal for adding a bit of polish to casual fabrics and shirts without looking overly formal or dressy. They are a great way to level up a brushed flannel or linen blend that can pair with casual tailoring or elevated essentials.