A deconstruction showing the canvas inside the jacket shell.
The construction style of your custom jacket will affect both its formality and the way it drapes and forms to your body over time. With each construction option we offer, details like the canvas, shoulder padding, and sleeve head change to help achieve your desired look.
Canvas
Canvas refers to the intermediate layer of material between the outer jacket fabric and the inner jacket fabric, which together are known as the “shell.” The purpose of canvas is to provide structure, enhance fit, and allow the shell fabric of the jacket to drape cleanly over the body. Proper Cloth’s canvas is loosely stitched by hand to the shell, providing structure and preventing strain on the garment. The canvas will mold to the wearer’s body over time and provide an even better custom fit that lasts.
With Proper Cloth you can choose a fully-canvassed construction, a half-canvassed construction, or a construction with no canvas. Fully-canvassed construction is a truly premium choice, with the canvas extending from the shoulder down to the bottom of the jacket and throughout the lapel. It provides the best drape and the most structure. Half-canvassed construction extends the canvas from the shoulder down to the midsection and throughout the lapel, primarily adding shape to the chest. A construction with no canvas provides no additional structure to the jacket, and is a popular option for more casual sport coats.
Shoulder Padding & Sleeve Heads
Shoulder padding and the sleeve head affect the drape of the fabric at your shoulders and upper sleeve. Shoulder padding will add structure above the shoulders, and will visually add volume to the upper torso. The sleeve head is a thin layer of fabric around the shoulder seam where the shoulder meets the sleeve that helps prevent dimpling at the armhole, and provides a clean drape over the upper arms. Proper Cloth’s construction options offer different combinations of canvas, shoulder padding, and sleeve head.
Fully-Canvassed Constructions: Mercer vs. Hudson
Structured, Fully Canvassed / Mercer Jackets
The structured, fully canvassed construction is our most structured option. These jackets come fully canvassed with a medium-weight canvas, shoulder padding, and a medium-weight sleeve head. This is our most formal option and is most appropriate for suit jackets worn in a business environment.
Suits featuring ‘Mercer’ in the product name will by default include this structured, fully canvassed construction.
Soft, Fully Canvassed / Hudson Jackets
Soft, fully canvassed jackets also feature a medium-weight canvas, but differ from the structured style in that it has no shoulder padding, and a lightweight sleeve head. Though it is a more relaxed style, the Hudson is a versatile option, and recommended for sport coats worn in business-casual or casual environments.
Jackets featuring ‘Hudson’ in the product name will by default include this soft, fully canvassed construction.
Half-Canvassed Constructions: Allen vs. Bedford
Structured, Half-Canvassed / Allen Jackets
The structured, half-canvassed construction is our go-to recommendation for a business suit jacket. It features a medium-weight half-canvassed construction, shoulder padding, and a medium-weight sleeve head. With canvas throughout most of the torso and padded shoulders, this option is reliable and ideal for your workhorse office garments.
Suits featuring ‘Allen’ in the product name will by default include this structured, half-canvased construction.
Soft, Half-Canvassed / Bedford Jackets
The soft, half-canvassed construction is our go-to recommendation for a sport coat. It is also half-canvassed, but using a lightweight canvas material, no shoulder padding, and a lightweight sleeve head. This option is ideal for business-casual and casual sportcoats, with its softer details and lighter weight.
Jackets featuring ‘Bedford’ in the product name will by default include this soft, half-canvased construction.
Uncanvassed Construction: Waverly Jackets
The uncavassed jacket construction is our most casual construction option. This style features no canvas, shoulder padding, or sleeve head. Due to its lack of structure, it’s best for jackets made from heavier casual fabrics that have a clean drape. It is more ideal for casual wear, and less suited to business environments.
Jackets featuring ‘Waverly’ in the product name will by default include this unstructured construction option.