When choosing a suit, sport coat, or trousers, you’ll want to make sure you’re getting a high-quality garment. There are several details that will help you identify a well-made tailored garment that will stand the test of trend and time. We’ve worked hard to ensure our tailored garments exceed those standards.
When designing your suit, it’s important to pay close attention to the fabric to ensure it complements your lifestyle. Whether you’re looking for a classic business suit that can be worn year-round, or a casual sport coat for warmer climates, the garment’s fabric will play a large role in its style and comfort. Though it can be difficult to sort through details like fabric composition, weave type, and thread count, we make it easy by ensuring all of our fabrics are of the highest quality and from world-renowned fabric mills. The most common fiber used for high quality tailored garments is .
A fabric reserve is the extra fabric included at the seams of a garment which allows for tailoring. Our tailored garments are made–to–measure, and as such you shouldn’t need many adjustments, if any at all. That being said, if you do want to have a tailor make slight adjustments for any reason, we give you the option to do so by building fabric reserves into all of our garments. we’ve laid out by how much each dimension of our garments can be altered by a tailor.
Although the lining of your jacket and trousers generally goes unseen, it plays a key role in the wearability of your garments. The ideal lining material for a jacket or trouser is Cupro, which is a cotton fabric with the feel and friction resistance of silk. Some brands line their suits with polyester that feels similar to Cupro, but it locks the heat in and offers little breathability. One of the benefits of using a natural fiber lining like Cupro is that it wicks moisture away from the body. We specifically use Bemberg Cupro, which, because it’s very light, silky, anti-static, and durable, is considered the gold standard of Cupro fabrics. It’s also biodegradable and a renewable natural resource.
Functional Sleeve Buttons & Authentic Horn Buttons
Many off-the-rack jackets feature non-functional buttons affixed to the jacket sleeve to allow for significant sleeve length adjustments. When you’re ordering a made–to–measure jacket, however, there’s no reason to forego the added class and practicality functional buttons can provide. Many people choose to leave one or two of their sleeve buttons undone to display the quality of their jacket. You could even undo all the sleeve buttons and push up the jacket sleeves for a much more casual look. All of our tailored jackets have functional buttons.
Button material also plays a part in the durability and look of your garment and, of course, its buttons. Horn buttons are incredibly durable, and are therefore very unlikely to crack or break with wear. They’re a great choice in terms of longevity, but also have stylistic benefits. Each horn button is unique, differing in color and pattern, and adds subtle one-of-a-kind visual detail to your jacket and trousers. Additionally, our natural horn buttons are ethically sourced to prevent animal cruelty.
adds shape to a jacket, allowing the fabric to drape nicely over the chest and torso. While some companies will fuse or glue the jacket fabric, or “shell,” to canvas or interlining, we attach the canvas to the main fabric by loosely hand stitching the two together. This is called a “floating canvas,” and it provides more flexibility, reduces strain on the shell, and allows the canvas to more easily mold to the wearer’s body over time.
While a floating canvas is the ideal design for most jackets, an unstructured jacket with no canvas at all can be just as high quality. In addition to our more structured jacket styles, we also offer the construction option which features no canvas, shoulder padding, or sleeve head to provide a more natural, casual look with the same high-quality materials we use for our structured jackets.
Rolled Jacket Lapel
A signature of quality hand-work in a well-made canvassed jacket is a roll at the bottom of the lapel. This roll forms naturally if the canvas inside the lapel is of superior quality and design. The structure and flexibility provided by the canvas creates a slight curl in the lapel just above the top button.
Fully Curtained Waistband
A curtained waistband provides an additional layer of material around the inside of the waist of a pair of trousers. This gives the trousers a more finished, clean look by covering the seam work inside them and serves a functional purpose by taking pressure off the garment’s fabric, reinforcing the waistband. It allows the pockets of your trousers to drape properly and stay in place, and also adds slight padding around the hips to increase comfort. All of our trousers are constructed with a curtained waistband to ensure a comfortable and durable fit.
Trouser Heel Guard
A heel guard is a strip of fabric sewn around the interior of the bottom hem of your trousers. This extra fabric layer protects the hem of your pants from your shoes and the ground, and adds weight to the hem so your trousers drape nicely over your shoes.