How It Should Fit: Resting flat along neck and shoulders
A proper Shoulder Slope should match the natural pitch of your shoulders. Whether you have broad, squared, rounded, or sloped shoulders, Proper Cloth offers six Shoulder Slope adjustments to meet most variations of shoulder shape and sizes:
- Sloping 0.3″
- Sloping 0.6″
- Square -0.3″
- Square -0.6″
- Square -0.9″
The Shoulder Slope setting is set to Standard as a default on all sizes. This is something that will work for most people, as it has been optimized to work for most body types. If you notice wrinkles behind the collar or fabric creasing near the shoulder area, however, your jacket will need a Shoulder Slope adjustment.
Perfect Jacket Shoulder Slope: No bunching behind collar or gathering under armpits
The goal is to achieve a Shoulder Slope that lays smoothly along the shoulders, upper chest, and sleeve head. There should be no wrinkles behind the collar or pull lines from the armpits towards the back of the neck.
Signs You Need the Sloping Shoulder Adjustment
Lines running from the armpits up towards the back of the jacket collar are a sure sign that you should increase the shoulder slope of your jacket. If you have sloped shoulders but are wearing a jacket that is not sloped enough to match your build, the garment may also appear to float above the edges of your shoulders. This may also present as a divot at the head of the jacket sleeve where it meets the shoulders. If you have the shoulder slope set to “Standard,” you will want to change it to one of the “Sloping Shoulder” settings.
Choosing between “Sloping 0.3” and “Sloping 0.6” depends on how steep the slope of your shoulders is. Generally, the more extreme the slope of your shoulders the higher degree of slope you want to implement. “Sloping 0.3” will lower the shoulders of the jacket by 0.3″ from “Standard”. “Sloping 0.6” will lower the shoulders of the jacket by 0.6″ from “Standard”.
Signs You Need the Square Shoulder Adjustment
Rolls or bumps behind your jacket collar usually indicate that you should apply the Square Shoulders adjustment. If you have broad or square shoulders and are wearing a jacket that has too much slope or the Shoulder Slope is set to “Standard,” the shoulders may push the jacket up. Since the jacket’s shoulder angle is too steep for your shoulders, it can cause the fabric to float above the neck which manifests as wrinkles behind the collar. If you have the shoulder slope at “Standard,” you will want to change it to one of the “Square Shoulder” settings.
Choosing between “Square -0.3,” “Square -0.6,” and “Square -0.9” depends on how flat the angle of your shoulders is. Generally speaking, the more prominent the bump below the collar, the more drastic the change necessary. The “Square -0.3” setting raises the ends of the shoulders by 0.3″ from “Standard”. “Square -0.6” raises the ends of the shoulders of the jacket by 0.6″ from “Standard”. “Square -0.9” raises the ends of the shoulders of the jacket by 0.9″ from “Standard”.
Jacket vs. Shirt Shoulder Slope: Should they be the same?
The Shoulder Slope setting of a jacket should not necessarily match the Shoulder Slope settings for a shirt. If a customer has a second or third degree slope adjustment on their shirt size, however, this may be an indication that a single degree adjustment is needed for the jacket size. In other words, a more extreme shirt slope adjustment suggest the possibility that a small jacket slope adjustment is needed.
Local Tailoring: Can a tailor adjust my Shoulder Slope?
A tailor can easily adjust the shoulder slope of a jacket that needs a Square Shoulders adjustment. A Sloping Shoulders adjustment will require a remake, however, as this change affects the jacket’s structure noticeably. We recommend for assistance with a remake.
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