Perfecting Your Straight Hem Shirt Size

short sleeve shirt with straight hem

A short sleeve shirt with a straight hem.

We offer three hem shape options for your custom shirt design: the Rounded Hem, Straight Hem, and Polo Hem. The Straight Hem and Polo Hem are great options for casual shirts you intend to wear untucked, as they’re considered less formal than the Rounded Hem and can make a decidedly relaxed sartorial statement.

straight hem shirt

The Straight Hem

polo hem shirt

The Polo Hem

You can change the bottom hem of any shirt in any size you like, however there are a few size adjustments we recommend if you choose a Straight Hem or Polo Hem and are looking to achieve a more casual look and fit. 

Increase Midsection Width

The Midsection Width is a key factor in the overall casual or formal silhouette of a shirt. For a casual shirt with a Straight or Polo Hem, increase the Midsection Width of a slimmer dress fit anywhere from .5” to 1” to ensure the shirt will have a more relaxed look. If you’re starting with an already looser untucked shirt size, consider increasing that Midsection Width another .5” to 1” anyway, especially for traditionally quite loose styles like Aloha shirts.

Decrease Shirt Length

A casual shirt’s length should generally be shorter than that of a business shirt, or any shirt you wear tucked. When designing a shirt with a Straight or Polo Hem, you’ll likely want to shorten the length by about 2”. If you’re changing from an untucked size, typically ordered with a round hem, a smaller decrease of just .5” should do the trick. This will prevent the shirt not only from looking too long, but from getting in the way of your pants pockets.

Increase Bottom Width

The Midsection Width and Bottom Width go hand-in-hand, so it’s best to keep those dimensions close in measurement to one another. Keep an eye on the Bottom Width of your shirt relative to the adjustment you make to the Midsection Width. Ideally, the Bottom Width won’t be more than 1.5” larger than the Midsection Width, as this proportion helps to maintain a straight shape and drape from the middle of the torso down to the bottom of the shirt. 

Note: The Bottom Width can be set to a specified number by clicking “Automatic” next to the Bottom Width parameter in the sizing profile. Alternatively, clicking “Specified” will return the Bottom Width to “Automatic” so the Midsection Width, Chest Width, and Shirt Length all automatically inform a recommended measurement.