No Back Pleats
No pleats on the back of the shirt makes for a clean, minimal look. If you’re going for a more modern, slim look that is fitted through the chest and midsection then this will be the best choice, visually.
Rear Side Pleats
Rear side pleats, also sometimes called “knife pleats,” are placed just below the yoke, out towards the ends of the shoulders. Each pleat is 0.5” wide. Selecting rear side pleats will add a total of 2″ of additional fabric to the upper back of the shirt while keeping the yoke and chest width the same. Rear side pleats are a great option if you want to increase range of motion when reaching forward.
Center Box Pleat
The center box pleat is a classic design detail and a more casual option traditionally seen on Brooks Brothers’ button downs or similar styles. Each side of the pleat adds 0.75” to the upper back of the shirt, for a total of 3″, to increase range of motion when reaching forward. In terms of style, the center box pleat is not the go-to recommendation for super slim-fitting dress shirts due to its classic/conservative design association.
Locker Loop Box Pleat
The locker loop is a vintage sport shirt detail originally designed to make it easy to hang up your shirt in, well, a locker. Located at the back of the shirt, it’s attached where the bottom center of the yoke meets the top of a center box pleat and is an especially popular choice for traditional American styles like oxford and madras shirts. The center box pleat component adds a total of 3” to the upper back of the shirt to increase range of motion when reaching forward.
Western Yoke and Back Pleats
Back pleats are not compatible with the Western Yoke design option. If you order a shirt with the Western Yoke style in a size profile that includes side pleats or a center box pleat option, the shirt will be constructed with a Western Yoke and no pleats.