How to Choose a Collar Style

With so many collar styles to choose from, choosing the perfect collar style can feel a bit daunting. But it’s really not so bad.  Here are some guidelines we generally stick with to help guys choose the right collar.

President Spread collar is always a safe choice

President Spread collar is always a safe choice

When in doubt choose the President Spread

If you don’t have strong feelings about your collar, and really just want something “normal” or “safe”, the President Spread collar is a great choice.  It’s not a particularly large or small collar and has nice, wearable proportions.  It’s a spread collar, which is (in our opinion) a bit cooler than the point collars, but it’s not an aggressive spread by any means.  The President Spread collar works well with a tie and also generally stands up nicely open collar with a blazer, making it a versatile business collar.  The President Spread is our most popular collar (by far) and you really can’t go wrong with it.

Shorter necks choose collars with standard collar bands

If you know you have a particularly short neck then you will want to stick to the collars that have standard-height collar bands.  The collar band is the part of the collar that goes around your neck, so the height of the collar band determines how high up your neck the collar will stand.  The English Spread, Londoner, Semi Spread and Straight Point are all great choices in this category with a 1″ collar band at the front of the collar.  You may also consider the Franklin Spread and Franklin Semi Spread collars. The Franklin collars also have a 1″ collar band, in addition to shorter collar points that work well proportionally for the vertically challenged.

Longer necks choose collars with longer collar bands

If you’re over 6 feet tall, or just feel that you have a longer neck, you’ll want to consider a collar with a slightly taller collar band, like our “President” collar styles.  The President collar styles are just slightly taller than the collars listed above with a front collar band height of 1 1/4″.  These are still in the range of a very “normal” size collar and you don’t have to worry about them looking strangely massive (no matter how big or small you are).  You can also consider the Roma Spread or Roma Cutaway collars, or even the Milano II, but these collars can be a bit too large for those that are shorter than average.

Senior people try bolder cutaways

More senior bosses can try bolder cutaways

Casual environments consider button down collars

If you’re picking out shirts for the weekend or a vacation, consider getting some with a button down collar.  The buttons hold down the collar points for a low maintenance shirt that works well under a blazer or sweater without a tie.  It’s a sportier vibe that looks great on a plaid or gingham shirt.

Junior people in conservative offices play it safe

If you’re a junior hire in a traditional business setting–bank, consultancy, law firm, etc–we generally suggest choosing a more conservative collar.  You want to stand out for the work you do, not the way you dress. In this case, you can’t go wrong with a classic President/English spread or (President) Semi Spread collar. These collars won’t turn any heads (in a good way).

Bosses should have a little fun

Worked your way up the corporate ladder and earned yourself a little flexibility? Feel free to experiment with something a bit more flashy.  If you’re in a particularly conservative office you may still want to steer clear of button-downs, club collars, and our largest collar, the Milano II, but you could surely consider the Londoner or Roma Cutaway for a more aggressive, confident look.  If your office is not totally old fashioned you could take it even further with the extreme President Cutaway.

Creatives consider soft unfused collars

Creatives consider soft unfused collars

Creatives consider soft unfused collars

If you work at a startup or media company and you’re going for a more casual cool look, we’d highly encourage you to take a look at our soft unfused collars like the Soft President Spread, Soft Franklin Spread, Colorado Button Down, Soft Roma Cutaway, Soft President Cutaway, or the Soft Ivy Button Down. These collars stand up tall and look great, but without the stiff crispness of a fused collar these avoid looking overly corporate.

Wider faces choose point or semi spread collars

Per the obligatory Alan Flusser adage, if you have a particularly round face, you might want to steer clear of something with an aggressive spread. Choosing an President Semi-Spread, Semi-Spread, or Point Collar can help visually lengthen out your face.

Longer faces choose spread or cutaway collars

If your face is particularly long, then a semi-spread or point collar might not be your best choice. A collar with a little more spread will balance out your natural shape. Consider the President Spread, Londoner, or President Cutaway as options that might look best on you.