Advanced Tips for the Perfect Trouser Fit

When it comes to the fit of your custom dress pants, the solutions to some common issues are tough to identify. Here’s what our experts say you should keep in mind when you’re modifying the fit of your trousers.

1. Waist Width

The fit around your waist can make or break the overall fit of your trousers. When creating your first custom dress pant size on our site, we recommend selecting a base size with the waist measurement you would select at any retail store.* The waist should fit just above the hip bones, and be both loose enough to allow 2-4 fingers to fit inside the waistband and tight enough to sit in place without a belt.

*Vanity sizing typically amounts to a 0.5″-1.0” difference between an item’s labeled size and the item’s actual measurements. If you typically purchase pants with a 34” waist from an American retail store, the pants will likely measure between 35” and 36” around the waist.

2. Hip Width

The Hip Width, more commonly known as the seat, fits well if the fabric drapes cleanly over the hips without interruption between the waist and the thigh. Tension lines around the fly or the pockets popping open are indicators that the Hip Width is too tight and may require that you choose a new base size. The Waist Width will also likely need adjusting if the Hip Width is changing, so make sure to check the fit of that dimension as well.

3. Bottom Opening Width

The fit of the bottom opening width can largely depend on the overall fit of the pants legs. There should be enough room around the bottom opening width to allow the fabric to drape cleanly over the legs while sitting, standing and walking. If you find that the lower leg catches on the calves when seated and does not return to full length when standing up, then the bottom opening width is too tight. 

Your personal style and body type will influence the taper of your pant legs, and therefore the measurements that govern it—Thigh Width, Leg Opening Width, and Knee Width. These are some of the easier dimensions to alter. Keep in mind that your pants should be comfortable when you’re standing, sitting, and walking. If the fabric of the lower pant leg catches on your calves when you’re seated and does not return to full length when you stand, the Knee Width and Leg Opening Width are likely both too tight. The Thigh Width, Leg Opening Width, and Knee Width can each be taken out by 0.25” (0.5” in circumference) and taken in by 1” (2” in circumference).

4. Inseam Length

The length of your trousers is controlled by the inseam. Like many of our customizable dimensions, the inseam length is dependent on your personal preference and style. It is important to consider what type of pant break you would like when adjusting your inseam length.

5. Front & Back Rise

Once again, your personal preference and style comes into play here. The front and back rise of your trousers should match your desired fit without any tightness or discomfort in the seat. A more classic fit has a higher rise that allows the waistband to sit above the hip bones. Conversely, a modern fit requires a lower rise, with the waistband sitting just below the hip bones. We recommend going with a medium rise, where the waistband sits atop the hip bones.