OK, we have a confession to make. We read Maxim magazine. Not all the time – just every now and then – like at night – my roommate bought it I swear! In Maxim’s defense, the magazine is not all about heavily photoshopped pictures of hometown hotties in bikini’s… There are some great articles about important issues such as… the new chevy camaro, and how to tell if your girl friend is cheating…
SIZE is determined by your neck’s circumference and the length of your arm. When a salesperson or tailor measures your neck, he should be able to slip one finger easily between the measuring tape and your Adam’s apple. To get your sleeve length, he will typically measure from the center of the back of your neck to your wrist.
THE PLACKET is the strip of fabric on which the buttons are sewn. In top-quality shirts, the seam has 14 stitches an inch. Fewer than 11 indicates an inferior garment.
BUTTONS on better dress shirts are things of beauty. They’re made of mother-of-pearl or a hard plastic composite backed with a thin layer of reinforcing resin. Cross-stitching ensures that they don’t pop off while you’re swearing violently at your boss.
COLLAR STAYS are flat, pointed plastic or metal inserts that slip into your collar to keep it from flapping about like Bozo the Clown’s ruffle. Look for a dress shirt that comes with stays (most do). Otherwise, make sure its collar has openings so you can insert your own.
STITCHING on the collar and on all seams, pockets, and buttonholes should be even, small, and tight. With single-needle stitching, a costlier technique, one side of the shirt is sewn at a time, resulting in an even line. With double-needle stitching, both sides are sewn simultaneously; the final seam sometimes puckers.
COTTON always offers a beautiful drape and solid performance. (Poly/cotton blends wrinkle less but fray faster.) Cotton options: Poplin is fine and soft; broadcloth has a supertight weave that gives it the silky luster of extra-luxe fabrics; oxford cloth is the most durable, with a rugged basket-weave texture that turns a traditional button-down shirt into a casual-Friday standby. Take your pick.
GAUNTLET BUTTONS—extra buttons placed along the opening in the sleeve—can be undone to make it easier to slip the shirt on. Buttoned, they give the shirt a smooth, neat look.
CUFFS should have two buttons about a half-inch apart. The cuff should be loose enough that you can wear a watch yet snug enough to keep the sleeve from sliding up and down annoyingly.
HEAVY NECKING
Don’t choke. There’s a collar style to fit every mug—even if you’re a thick-necked thug.
Tab-point collars accentuate this season’s chunky ties; guys with long, narrow, or “normal” faces can really pull off this look.
Button-down collars can be worn almost every day, except on super-dressy occasions. Round- or full-faced guys should stay away from this style.
Long Euro-point collars draw attention to that special tie your adoring intern bought you and can slim not-so-perfect pusses.
Ainsley, or short-point, broad-spread collars—often white, to contrast with colored shirts—are the dressiest business option. They flatter full faces.
Banded collars in solid colors work for formal events; print versions are better for casual wear. If you’re pencil-necked or narrow-shouldered, steer clear.
Hidden button-down collars fasten on the underside with special tabs. Their sleek shape is best for guys with full faces. And we don’t mean full of donuts.
